The Beta on the new Petzl-Charlet Ice Axes

I have been getting a bunch of questions about the new tools so thought I would post some info. (I am the sales rep and used them all last year)

New Nomic has:
- teeth on bottom of griprest, for piolet canne
- a more positive griprest when in the large position
- slightly larger grip. ie: the middle position on the 'griprest' now fits a bigger hand/glove.
- some grooves on the griprest for more friction with the pinky finger
- hammer/adze compatible
- 2 new/slightly different pick options: The 'ice' pick and the 'dry' pick. Both are 3mm at the tip and 4mm further back and are T rated. The big difference is the Dry pick has 'torquing teeth' on top and a few extended teeth on the bottom to prevent skating off big holds.
- With the new picks you will be able to add a hammer to the old Nomic. You won't be able to retro the new griprest onto the old tool.
- if you want to get the hammers and new picks for your old tools I would put a request in with your local shop soon and then they can get extra delivered with the new tools.

The New Quark:
- super light, a bit shorter, and similar clearance to the old Quark.
- Will replace the old Aztar and Quark.
- Almost everyone I let use this tool said it was the best swinging tool they have ever used.
- Swings similar to the old Aztar or Aztarex but has more clearance and better grip.
- My 'go to' tool for WI 5 and below.

Ergo:
-tons of clearance
- Drytools amazing and ice climbs really good on steep ice.


Couple general things:
- All three tools will have the exact same head and there will be 2 picks that accommodate the whole range.
- Gear Up Sports in Canmore will be getting all the tools that you can rent for a day and try them out before you buy.


Cheers,
Rob

The CORE alpine wardrobe: by Patagonia

R1 Hoody. When you find yourself soaked with sweat after sprinting up an easy section, don't worry, this piece will dry faster than any other. N face of Mt. Temple in Summer.
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I have been working (as an ACMG guide) and engaging in a multitude of harsh alpine conditions over the past 17 years. A few of those years included upwards of 200 days a year in the alpine. -40C days ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies (stupid, I know). Wet, open bivy's in winter conditions. Snowfield sprints, IE: wet, followed by 2 hour belays. Multiple days in an icy single wall tent.

The most important thing I have learned in terms of a clothing system for alpine climbing is that synthetics are a must. Down sleeping bags or insulated jackets are useless when wet and also more vulnerable when you get a hole in the shell material. Also, merino wool takes too long to dry. Both Wool and Down are acceptable when you know for certain you will be able to stay dry, working at a moderate level, and sleeping in your home. If you are getting committed or striving for an objective it is necessary to go with synthetics.

I have been working with Patagonia for a year now (sleazy sales guy, I digress) and feel I have discovered the best clothing system yet. It is not always easy to know what is the best clothing system when looking online or even trying on clothes in a store.

Here is my recipe for summer and winter alpine climbing:

Top:
- Capilene 1 t-shirt: Silky smooth, fast drying and layers nice.
- R1 hoody: offers lightweight insulation that is super fast to dry, super light, and crazy breathable. It is longer in the torso so it stays tucked into your pants when ice climbing. The best insulation for moisture management.
- Houdini Jacket: A paper thin, nylon jacket with a functional hood. Very windproof and often all you need for a day of alpine climbing in winter or summer. Also kicks ass for mountain biking and nordic skiing.
- M10 jacket. This is the most breathable waterproof jacket Patagonia has ever made....and it stretches! It is super light weight and minimalistic. I find that 95% of the time my rain jacket is stowed away in my pack which means I need it lightweight and packable.

The above items are often what I use in all 4 seasons when heading out into the bigger peaks. +20C to -20C. I recently used these exact items while rock climbing on Yamnuska, the North Face of Temple, and all last winter while ice climbing.
What changes with the seasons is what I bring as an insulated jacket/belay jacket.
Summer= Nano puff pullover or hoody (60g of primaloft 1)
Winter= Micro Puff Hoody or DAS Parka (100g and 170g of primaloft 1)

Bottom:
- Capilene 1 or 2 in the summer. Capilene 3 or 4 in the winter.
- Rock Guide pants in the summer or if minimal snow. Alpine Guide pant in the winter.
- M10 pant. Optional. I usually don't take waterproof pants in the winter but often take them on committing climbs in the summer.

The above clothing system works for rock, ice, alpine, expedition climbing as well as ski touring.

If you want to save a few dollars you could go with the Rainshadow pants and jacket instead of the M10. It would be slightly heavier, not quite as breathable, and not 3 layer but still totally acceptable in terms of weight and functionality.

As a representative for Patagonia, as a guide, and as a climber I get a lot of questions about 'what I recommend' from store employees, clients, and my climbing partners. Well, this is what I really think. Of course there are many other options but these are the CORE Patagonia items that every climber would see benefit from having in their quiver.

Links:
Capilene: http://www.patagonia.com/us/search/capilene-baselayer/?k=6x&te=capilene-baselayer
R1 Hoody: http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/patagonia-mens-r1-regulator-hoody?p=40072-0-616
Nano: http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/patagonia-mens-nano-puff-pullover?p=84020-0-803
Micro: http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/patagonia-mens-micro-puff-hooded-jacket?p=83974-0-984
Das: http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/patagonia-das-parka?p=84101-0-614
M10:http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/patagonia-mens-waterproof-m10-jacket?p=84170-0-804
Rainshadow: http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/patagonia-mens-waterproof-rain-shadow-jacket?p=84474-0-614
Rock Guide:http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/patagonia-mens-rock-guide-pants?p=56635-0-176
Alpine Guide: http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/patagonia-mens-alpine-guide-pants?p=83700-0-671

Mike Verwey climbing while wearing his DAS Parka. You don't do this with a down jacket.
Temple North face in Winter.